Buttonhole-sewing machine.



PATENTED DEG. 31, 1907.

W. N. PARKES.

BUTTONHOLB SEWING MAGHINE. nrmouron num un. 1a, 1900. nrmnwin l 4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

No. 875,598. PATENTED DEG. 3.1, 1907.

W. N. PARKBS.

BUTTONEOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Arrmoulox FILED nu. 1a, 1900. BBNBWBD un. s, 190s.

. 4 sums-SHEET 2,

No. 875,598. PATENTBD 1320.31, 1907.

Ws Nu A BUTTONHGLB SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATIOI FILED JAH. 13. 1900. REIBWBD KAB. 5, 1903.

- 4 sums-sumar s` No. 875,598. PATENTED DEG. 31, 190'7.

W. N. PARKES.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE,

APPLIOATION FILED IAF.. 13, 1900. BEEEWBD IAR. 5| 1003.

A4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

.Zi-vwnfor: t

Wzasea: I

WILLIAM N. PARKES,

OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BUTTONHOLESEWING MACHINE.

No.7875,59s.

To all 'whom it may concern'.

Be it 1know-rr that I, W'ILLIAM N. PARKES, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at the borough of Brooklyn, New York city, county of Kings, and State ol' New York, have invented new and useful Iliiprovcments in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

Specification tif-Letters Patent. Application tiled Illini?! 13'. 1900- Serial No. 1,304. Renewed March 5i 1903- Serial No; 146.416.

Patented Dec. 31, 1907.

i been completed the Vfeed wheel again coml mences to act, and through it said camcomnioved from the action of the feed wheel. If the action of the l'eed wheel is suspended, as above noted, and the stitches then made at an end of the button-hole, said stitches will be piled on top of each ot-her. This is objec- This invention relates to buttonhole sewtionable because the barring stitches ill be ing machines ofthe type which bind both sides and bar both ends of the buttonhole.

Preferably the invention is disclosed in connect-ion with the buttonhole sewing machine covered by Patent No. 658,578,

iront the following'description that this` invention may be used in connection with other buttonhole sewing machines.

Inmy said former patent is shown and described mechanism for automatically changing the extent ot' the lateral movement ot' the needle to make the barring stitches across the end of the button-hole, and means for suspending the action of said inechanisni during the stitching;F of the sides of the button-hole. During the time that the said mechanism acts to ,change tlfe stitch forming,r mechanism for the making 'of the barring'I stitches, and during the making of the. said i barring stitches, the mechanfsm by means of which the work is moved to dispose the,I Stitches along the sides of the hole is in ac- One of the. main objects of my present in- ,l vention is to provide means for automatically suspendingr the action of the mechanism l 'stitches along` the sides of the button-hole,

his.

by if lich the work is moved to dispose the during the time the barring or stitching is being done-,at the ends thereof. And in the i present form of mv invention this -objectsl secured by suspendintr the action of the t'eed l wheel by means of which said mwhanism is i oywra'ted.' I' ln button-holel sewing machines the work l is usually moved, -to dispose the slit-chest along the sides ot' the l'mttoii-liole, from the action of a revolving cam. ln the present -j .forni of my invention this function is also sei cured ronithe action of a revolving cam,

i -and .simultaneously with the beginning,r of l the stitching at the end of the button-hole, the `action of the feed wheel is susi-ended as t ,fore noted,`and the revolving movement l ol` sa.id cam is thereby sus iended. After the l stitching at one end of t ic button-hole liasl all anchored in the work at the same point,

the number oiI stitches that can be made iii.

the bar, and the strength of the same being thereby limited. For various other obvious reasons it is objectionable to drive t-he needle l i l l "ranted Sep. 25, 1900; but, it will be clear through the material a number of times at l if it plunges through the mass of thread the.

needn or needle thread is liable to be broken.

Referring again to the objects of my inven- *Jn it is noted that another import-ant object is to suspend the action of the mechanism by means of which the work is moved forthe length of the button-hole, to secure the advantages that result from such suspension, and at the saine time avoid the above mentioned objectionable results of piling: all the. stitches on top of each other at .the end of the hole. To this end, in my present invention, the action of the mechanism which is commonlyealled the feedingr mechanism, is suspended simultaneously with the begin- ,ningl of t-he stitching of an end of a buttonhole, and at the same time the cain,.bv means of which the work is moved for the. length of the button-hole, is bodily moved laterally as the stitching,r progresses at'. the end ofthe button-hole. And this movement of said cam causes a displacement between the work and the needle, b v means ot' which the stitches at the end ofthe button-hole are disposed so they are not all piled on top ol' e'aeh other. An auxiliailvfcun acts to bodily move the cam that is usually called lthi` leedingcam, and by this means the stitching at the end ofthe hole maj ie dis osed as may be desired, just as they are a one; the sides of a button-hole. 'lhe construction of the auxiliary cam determines theK disposition of said stitches at the end of the button-.hole

as wil! he seen m connectiimwith the -119 niencesto revolve, and the work is againothersidc ol' a button-hole.

lne'xt to the' said gear 6; F ig. 6, is a side view Vif() cam, and thereb)` the displacement of the work-carrier, that the work 1s moved durlng `s'ists in the parts, improvements and'comof the feed cam, a'nd through it the movel ment of the work to place the stitches atthe end of the button-hole, it noted that this does not in any way eil'ectthe movement of said feed cam in feeding the work for the j leugthof the button-hole. The feed cam, i as before. noted, is revolved when the sides of the button-hole are being stitched, and it is .from thev revolving-movement of'said cam that the wbrk is moved to dispose the stitches along the sides ofthe hole, and from the time the movement of the feed wheel is suspended until it is started again the workis not moved from the action of said feed cam. It is b v means of the bodily displacement of `said feed the makingr of the stitches at the end of the button-holef Y In m v before mentioned patent, means are provided for changing the amplitude of lateral movemcnt'of the needle at the end of the button-hole, and to shift laterally the working position of the needle for the purpose of changing the stitches from one to the A ratchet wheel, that is mounted separately from the feed lare,

wheel, and actuated 'separately from thcsame is adapted to operate seid means.

Returning again now to the object of in v present invention,l it is noted that an important object of the'salne is, to move the work during the time that the feed wheel is idle, from the action of said ratchet wheel, or from a part of the mechanism that is actuated b v the same.

With these and other objects in view, as will appear hereinafter, my invention con binations hereinafter t escribed and claimed.

Referring to the drawings-: Figure 1, is a front elevation of a machine embodying my invention; Fig. 2, is a rear elevation; Fig. 3, is a rear end view of the same; Fig. 4, is a view of the side of the gear 6, next to the cam 22 Fig. v5, is a view of the end of the cam 22,

of the tacking ratchet whe-e123; Fig. 7, is

a bottom view of the slide disk 14; Fig. 8, is a l top view of the disk 12 Fig. 9, is a detail AShowing an end of the bell crank lever 2S; F ig. 10, is a diagrammatic view of a buttonhote made on this machine; Fig. 11, is an elevation of cam 27, showing the formation of the cam groove a; Fig. 12, isa top plan view 'of my invention; Fig. 13, is a side elevation of n part of the work-clamp actuating mechanism and Fig. 14, is a side view of the workclamp feed ratchet wheel.

In the drawings A designates the bed plate ofthe machine; B the overhanging arm, C

the needle-bar, I) the gate in which the needle-barils mounted, and E the lower shaft l ofthe. machine. The needle-bar is mounted l .65 in a usual manner in the gate D which perl mits it to be reciprocated vertically and moved laterally. Lis-ual means (not shown) are provided for operating the needle-bar vertieall \v from the main shaft of the machine. On this main shaft intermediate its ends is attached a usual switch cam (not shown). On a suitable bearing, and transverse to the same in the arm B, of the macnine, is journaled a shaft (not shown). To the forward end of the said shaft is fixed an eccentric, also not shown, and on the said eccentric is pivoted, between its ends, a lever at* which is inA engagement at its lower end with the aforesaid switch cam. To theothcr end of the said shaft is fixed an arm a*. A way u, is formed in the lever o", and in the said way the end of a lilik r1, is adapted to slide, which link, at its other end is attached to the needle-bar gate l). An adjustable link (l, is at its upper end connected to the link r1, and at'its lower end to a way a, formed in a segmentV arm u", which arm is attached to the forward end of a shaft (if, which is suitably mounted transverselv to the arm B, the rear end of which shaft `is shown in Fig. 2. To this rear end of the shafta, is attached an arm as, on one end of which is mounted an anti-friction rollend",

.which is in engagement with a cam formed in the lower end of a cam lever al which is pivoted at a to arm B. A l; ver 36,-1s suitably pivoted at d", and at its lou'erend is in engagement, by means of an anti-friction roller, 1"

with a cam groove a-13 formed in a cam 22. A link a, connects the. upper end of the lever 36, with the segment arm a*, anda link (lconnects the upper end of the lever 36 with the cam lever a.m as shown in FiU 9.

When the machine is 1n operation the lever a" receives a uniform vibratory movement from the action of the switch cam before mentioned and this vibratory movement is transmitted through the link a3, to the -needlebar gate D and thus to the needle-bar The location of the end of the link a3, in the way a, of the lever 0.2.1, determines the extent of the said vibrato movement. he way a, is of sufficient ength and so located that the end of the link a3, can be moved over the ivot of the lever. a". When in this osition the link a, and the needle-bar will) consequently have no vibratory` movement. j' y When the lever 36, is oscillated the arm (1*, is oseillated and through it the shaft on which it ismounted'and the eccentric which is on the other end of the saidl shaft is operated. This oscillation changes the vibrating position of the lever a, as more fully explained in the buttondiole sewing machine patent above referred to. oscillation of the arm a-*, and through it of the eccentric mentioned, is determined ,by the position of the end of the link a, with re spect to the axis of the arm a*. The arm a,

'is oscillated by the lever 36, a` uniform extent at the proper time in the stitching of a buttonhole through its connection with the said arm. The oscillation of the arm a, is for the purpose of automatically changing vthe position of the end of the link a, in the way of, of the lever a, The location of the end ol' the link a, m the way a, of. the arm n, determines the extent of the 'said change and thus when the end of the link 11.*, is over,

the pivot of the arm al, there is no vertical motion of the link af. The adjustment of the link al, intermediate of its length (see Fig. l) is for the purpose of determiningthe workingr posit-ion of the end of the link af, in the way a", of the lever a. To the free end ol' the lever as, is attached the lower end n of a link b', to the urper end of which is at- :other end attached Ato thelever c.

' A standard' c,

' tudinally of taclled a lever b2, w uchis suitably pivoted at lf. and which at its forward end is adapted to engage the tension b, and automatically release the same from the thread.

Before specifying further the stitching, taeking and l'e'edimr mechanism, I will de scribe so lar as is thought necessaryfor an understandingr of the same, my stop motion device..

lo the rear end of the u per shaft of the machine is attached a whee c. Next to the said wheel e', is loosely mounted on the said shaft, a driving pulley c2, which is adapted to engage the wheel c, and through it operate the machine. A leverc3, havin(r extensions e, c", and c, is suitably ivotc( on a. bearing which isal-t-ac'hed to tie rear end of the arm B of the machine. A bracket c, is also attached to said arm. l'lrx'theouter end of the said bracket, by means of springs c", is attached one end of a strap c", which strap eneireles the wheel c, and is at its 'l` he peri hcry ofthe wheel c1, is suitably formed or rictional engagement with the strap e. iS- attached to the arm B. A stud is adjustably connect-ed tothe. said standard, and, at its lower end, is connected 'taf means of aspring c", to the strap c. iis yielding connection between the stud c, andthe strap e, serves as a means for holding the stra in position. around the wheel c, and at tlie same time permits it to move under the action of the stop motion. To a .standard c, is adjustahly .onnected threaded bolt c, which is fastened to one end of a spring c, the other end of the said s ring being connected to the extension e, of

e lever c. An incline e, is formed on the u per end of the extension e', of the .lever i, w zich incline is adapted to engage a lwm'ing 1;", on the pulleyr wheel c2. This )ulley Wheel c', is so mounted on 'the end ol' t ie'up- Yper shaft o the lmachine that it turns looselv on'the same and may also be moved longithe same so as to be pushed in or out of engagement with the wheel el.

When the lever c, is in the position shown in Fig. 3, the wheel c, is Dressed into engagement'withthe wheel c, y means of the 1ncline c, formed onthe extension 0*, of the said lever. The spring 61"', normally acts on the lever c, so as to turn it and throufrh it the extension c, in the direction shown-by the arrow on Fig. 3. A catch el", having a notch c, formed therein is attached to the lower end of the lever c3, and a suitably pivoted latch c2, adapt-ed to engage the stop lever in itsoperative position against the action of the spring c. This stopmechanism, so far as herein described, forms no part of my present invention and is the same as that shown by me and clained in my Patent N o. 653,938, issued July 17, 1900.

In my present invention the work moving mechanism is adapted at the proper time to trip the said stop mechanism into aftion. W'hen i'. is so tripped the lever ci, and through it the extension ce, of the same is moved in the direction shown by the arrow. This` movement b v reason of the incline c", disengages the wheel c2, from the wheel c aiid lbrings the stri i c, into engagement with the wheel c', there )y arresting the. movement of the machine.

A feed wheel '1, is attached to the rear end of a shaft2, which shaft is mounted to turn in suitable hearings. The feed wheel l, is provided with a double segment 3, which has teeth formed on it eoinr ident with the teeth on the feed wheel and' which teeth are adapted to close gaps 4, and 4*, in the teeth of the feed wheel, the segment being adjustableifor this purpose.

0n a, snitablelmaring of the frame is pivoted at its upper end a lever d', which is oscillated from a cam (not shown) attached to th'e rear end of the lower shaft E, said shaft being oscillated in a usual manner. In the face of the lever di, is formed a curved way df, in which one end 0f a link d, is adjustahly connected, the other end of the link being connected with a pawl lever d', which is pivoted on thel rear end of the shaft 2. A pawl 5.; is attached to the )awl lever d, and adapted I to engage the rateliet wheel 1. -The wav df, formed in the lever d, is so constructed that the pawl 5, always starts forward at a given )oint whatever theextent of the stroke may Je. Means for driving the feed wheel l, are the same as shown in the Patent No. 658,578, issued September 25, 1900.

To the forward end of the` shaft 2, is attached a gear wheel 6, which meshes with a gear wheel 7, attac-hed to a shaft 8, mounted to turn in suitable. bearings. To the forward end ol the shaft S, is attached a. bevel gear 9, which meshes with a bevel gear 10, attached to vertical shaft 11, mounted to turn in suitable bearin'gs. I

To the top of the gear .1 D,`1s attached a disk fas - of a bell crank lever to the one on the upper side, is mounted onV top of the disk 12, the rib'l, being adapted to slide in the way 13, formed in the said I disk l2.

A cani carrying disk 17, is mounted on top of the slide dlsk 14, a wav being formed m lts under side in which the rib l5, of the disk 14,.

is adapted to slide, as shown in Fig. 13.` On the top of the cam carrying disk 1T, is adjustably mounted a cam 1S, which is adapted to operate between jaws on the under side of a work-clamp 36, said prkwhrmp being shown in Fig. l2, partly broken away to cxpose the driving cam and disk. The cam 1S, is so constructed that it gives the workclamp, when operating between hearings` or jaws attached to it, as in my said patent, a uniform reciprocating movement longitudinally of the bult-onhole, the extent of which is increased or decreased by shown) being provided for actuating th(` said pawl lever. To the forward end of the shaft 2l, is attached an auxiliary cam 27, which engages by means of an anti-friction roller shown in dotted outline in Fig. 1;?, one end 28, which is pivoted on a suitable bearing at 29. The other und ofthe bell crankl lever 2S, is enlarged, as vat. 30. and

has a. hole 31, through it which adapts it to encircle the cam carrying disk 17, as shown in Figs. 9 and 12. y I* 'In `a slot 32, formed in the, gear 6. is ad.-

a tappet justabl.l `rttached in a usual way 33, the tappet projecting from the side of the gear next to the cam 22. A iixed tappet-l, projects irom th same side of the said geur and a tappet 35, projects from the end of the cam 22, next to t ie Vgear 6, as shown in Figs- 4 and 5.

' As in my former Patent #65K-WY, the.

lever 36, transmits, `through the ai-t ion ol the cam 22, the necessary movements to the needle-bar for ticking the ends of the buttonholes and moving the Working position of the needle-bar from one s ide of the hole to the other.v

In getting the machine ready for 'operation, the means which actuate the pf'wl 5, 1re adjusted so that the said pawl :urns the feed Wheel 1, at each stroke and, through Ait and the intermediate mechanism, the cam The segment 31s 18 'the desired extent.

adjusting the cam from untoward the center of thc disk cod of a shaft- 21, which is wheel under the lpaw] adjusted so that the gaps 4. and 4*. are of' a greater extent than the stroke Aof the pau'l 5, preferably one tooth greater than the stroke of the said pawl. The gaps 24, and 25, in the teeth of the ratchet wheel 23u. :rre of a greater' extent, also prr i rably one (not h greater, than the strokev of..th'e pau'l 2U, which operates the said ratchet vfhccl. The tappets 33', 34 and 35, are so located that they all turn in one path or circ s, the tappet 35, being, ofcourse, between tappets 33, 'and 34.

The cam 27, is so'constriic'tcd that the cani 18, is more-d bodily an exrcntwhich it is desired to have thc txufking spread longiludinali)v ol the'buttonhble,v tlirt is. an extent Vthat is equal to thedistance'between :l and b 1n Fig. 10.

The disk 14, being free to more in Iwo-directions, which directions are :it rig-lu ang-lcs to 'each other, it is seen, of course, that the cam-rarrvingdisk 17. cnn bc given :r universal movement; The cam-,carrying lisk 17, only has to be nro-red .-1. short distance, that it, the extent of the tack :u the cnd oi' the hole, and longiludihnll ol'ihcisnid h olc.

4Yith my present in'iprm'cnwnt applied to my former machine above rcl'crrcd to',"[hc operation of the said 'niachinc is, as l'ollo\\s:- During the taclzing atjhc ends'hf the buttonhole. the pnwl 5. operates in one ofthe gaps in the tee il of the' Ped 'hcvl 1, as shown in Fig. l-l. theposition 'of the paul, in the said figure,l being that hich itis iu just previous to itsforward movement, so, of coursc 1he feed wheel l, remains :n rest muil it is turned so that the first tooth under `the pawl 5. 'l`hestop motionof the machine is so 'timed 'that the machine is stopped when the mwl`2ii, inl cugagenufnt witlr the teeth of the ratchet 23, nsshown in of thesaid wheelv and' in .theniddle of, the barring at the irst end of the luittonhole- Non', when the lmachine is start-cd,` about one-half of thc barring stitches ntthc .irst end of the hole` are first made, and during which thev tnppet 35. comes into engagement with tappct 33, and turns the fearwheel C, and through it. the feed whee l,` until-the avfl 5, engages the-teeth beyond thegapA. lhe tappets' and inishinglol' the lnststroke engagement witlrthe teeth of the ratchet wheel 23, before rraehing the gap24. brings the tzrppet 255, into engagement with the tappet 33, and thereby the feed wheel 1, beyond the gap 4, of` the said wheel, under. the actuating pawl 5. The next stroke of the .pawl 2li, isin'the ga 2-1, between the teeth/f the wheel 23, 'an

gaps 'are so IllLf-cd that the? turns the first tooth of-z beyond the gap comes- AFig. (i. which is between the gaps in the teeth therefore, the wheel comes to a rest and re.

mains so until the pawl 5, has turned the wheel 1, so as to bring the gap 4*, of the said The last stroke Of'the said pawl, before moving in the gap 4?", l bruut* the tappet 34, into engagement with i Ul@ tnppet 35, and thereby brings the teeth 0f the ratchet wheel 23, again under the gttllntmg pawl 26. While feeding the wheel 3, fl'uln gap 24 to gap 25, the lacking at the Second end of the buttonhole is completed. The hist stroke of the pawl 26, before mo". ing 1U Ult* trap 25, brings the tappet 35, again into engagement with the tappet 33, and thereby UIHS the inst tooth across the gap 4*, of the Wlltfl l, into engagement with the pawl' 5. During the engagement of the pawl 5, with th? lleth of the wheel l from gap 4*, to the g.l li lllisecond side of thebuttonhole is hlm'littl. The last stroke ofthe pawl befUFU Utoring in the gap 4, again brings the Ullwt 34, into engagement with the tappet 3, and thereby, as before, turns the teeth of the wheel 23, into engagement. with the pawl 2b, which engagement. continues until the bill' all the tirst end of the'hole is completed, when the stop motion is tripped into action 51ml .the machine is stopped. Under these cond|t|ons`it will be seen that the bar at the end of the hole is not atfeeted at all by the movement of the feed wheel 1, as the movement of the said wheel is alwa vs stopped before the barring commences.y lt will also be seen that the barring at the ends of the holes does not in any wav atleet the mo'i'elnent of the work during the stitching of the sides otthe holes, for -the reason that the barring is always stopped before the stitch- Ulg Uf thesside commences. lt will also be seen that the. barring stitches, tar as the working of the mechanism up to this point has been explained, would be piled on top` of each other, as the movement of the workcarrier during the time that the said barring stitches are made has not been' explained. 0f COUlse, a bar made in this manner will M Wtly be the same no matter how ina-ny vStlt'Cllts there are made in the sides oiI the buttonhole, or how long the hole is made. A bl Iliade in this manner, with the stitches Plltl 0n top of each other, is objectionable, 8S lltell in connection with the statements ol ,OlJCCS llt the beginning of this specification. Therefore I have provided means for dis- )OSmg sind stitches at the end of the buttonole so they will not all be iled on top of euch other, these means l willi now descrita. T0 Spread the bar longitudinally of the llOl, I provide the mechanism whit-.his operated through the movements et the auxiliary 13am 1 .7, the operation ol' which I will noer en lain. T

he cam 27, so constructed and timed relatlvely to the cam 22, that tle anti-triction roller, mounted on the end 0l the bell crank lever 2S, is engaged by the cam groove of .the said cam 27, from al, to a, simultaneously with the movement of the cam 22, in

barring the iii-st end ot the buttonhole This engagement moves the bell crank lever 28, through 1t the cam 18, and the work-carrier, so that a layer ot' barring stitches 1s made from e, to d, and a second layer on top of the lirst layer from d to e, as shown in Fig. l0. Thus, it will be seen, that the barring at the irst end of the buttonhole is finished just where it was started, and that this brings the work in the prcper place under the needle for the beginning of the binding stitches on the first side of the hole, which is at e. After the tirst side of the buttonhole is completed and simultaneously with the movement of the cam 22, during the barring of the second end ci" the hole, the cani groove of the cam 27, engages the bell-crank lever from a,2 to al, and thereby moves the work-clamp, so that a layer of barring stitches is rst iliade from b, to a, then a second layer from a, to b, which brings the work in a position for the commencement of' the binding stitches on the second side of the hole.

lt is seen from the foregoing that the extent of the lateral movement of the needle f er the barring stitches, and the change of the working position of said needle from one to the other side of abutton-hole is under the control of a ratchet operated mechanism, and that from the movement of a part of this mechanism the auxiliary cam 27 is revolved, and by the means between the sume and the worlvearrier the latter is shifted for the purpose of disposing the barring stitches as de.- scribed. And it is also seen that the. mechanism for moving the work to dispose the binding stitches along the sides of the button-hole is under the control of a second ratchet. operated mechanism, which includes a revolving cam by means of which the work-carrier is moved for disposing the 'stitches along the side ofthe buttonhole. AAnd it is of course obvious that as the feed wheel lis idle during the makingof the barring stitches at the ends of the holes, the cam 1S does not revolve, and that thus the use of this rain is lupt-intact` for its special purpose ol' moving or feeding the work to dispose the binding stitches along the sides of the blitton-hole. And it is thought that it has also been made clear that as the ratchet wheel 23 is idle during the operation of the ratchet wheel l, the cams 22 and 27 are idle during the stitching of the sides of the button-hole, and that thus the use of these cams are kept intact for their special purpose, of controlling the extent ol' the lateral movement of the needle, shifting laterally the working position of said needle, and displacing the /orleearrier l'or the purpose of disposing barring stitches at the ends of the button-hole.

The term barring stitches used in this a plication is to be understood to mean tie placing of stitchesat the. ends of a hole in such a manner as to finish said ends, and it will be understood to be immaterial Whether said end stitches are composed of long stitches or short stitches or otherwise, so long as they l` reinforce the ends of the button-hole. -Tho for producing a relative movement between suspension.

the. stitch forming mechanism and the work to dispose the stitches along the side '0l' a button-hole. The term auxiliary work moving device is to he understood to only take within its scope the i-. \z1iis\\'liicli moves the work separately from the work moving mechanism to dispose the stitches at the ends of the hole. And it is to he understood that. this device includes the mechanism that acts to move the work for sain end stitches, diiring the time the nieciianisiii that gives, the work. the usual feeding movement-for the length of the hole is idle. The cam 2T, can be constructed so as to finish its movements a little ahead of the cani 22,.say two or three stitches, which.willaeaiise tivo or three hai'- ring stitches to be made on top of each other, the needlegoing down in the same holes, at the sainetime tying the. ends of the `thread at the finishing of each har.,

It will he noted that the iiioveme'its of thc work-holder are consecutively progressive;

but, itis to be understood that the claims are not to -be limited thereto, except when specified.

I do not wish to be limited to the specific. means herein shown for separating the move' ment of the barring mechanism from the movement of the mechanism which stitches the sidesof the holes, as itv is. evident other -means might be lused without departing from the spirit of my invention.:

Having thiis described my invention what l claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

' il. Ahutt-on-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism ada it-ed to make the end and side stitches of a lliutton-hole,a

feedingmcchanism for moving the work to dispose the side stitches, means for suspend? -1ngtlie action of said feeding mechanism, a*

device actuated separately from said feeding mechanism for controlling said stitch form; ing mechanism for the end stitches, andf means adapting said device.` to canse the feeding mechanism to `again act after said 2. A biittonfliole` Imachine ci'imprising means for making the end and side stitches of a button-hole, a feeding mechanism for moving the work to dispose the said side stitches, means for suspending the action of said feeding mechanism during the making of tlieend stitches, a barring nieehanisnnand means adapting said barring mechanism to,

cause said feeding mechanism to again act after said suspension.

3. A button-lioic sewing machine coniprising a needle and means for operating it;

f It, i

a work carrier; means for producinga relatively progressive.,movement between the work carrier and the needle longitudinally of the button-hole during the formationot the side rows ofstitches; and independent means i for producing a relatively progressive movement between the needle and the workcarrier longitudinally of the button-hole during the barring.

4.'-\ button-hole machine comprising a st itch forming mechanism having a crt ica lly reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle for making the end and side stitches'of :i

button-hole; a feeding mechanism fociuov-f" ing the work to dispose the stitches` means for suspending the action of said feeding? mechanism, a barring mechanismiand means adapting said harring mechanism to canse said 'feeding mechanism to again act al'tcr said suspension.

A button-hole sewing machine comprising a work-carrier; means including a cam for giving the work-carrier a progressive movement longitudinally of the huttoii-hole;`

' and means including a second cam, forgiving 90 the work-carrier a second and separate.

progressive movementlongitiidiiially ofA the button-hole. Y 6. A vbutton-hele sewing machine com prisi'ng a work-carrier; means. ineludingi 95,Y

carrier a progressive movenient longitudinally of the button-hole; and means inclnd-l ing a second ratchet mechanism for giving the work-carrier a second andl separate] progressive. movement longitudinally of the. button-hole. u 4 A button-hole sewing machine coinr prising a feed-wheel; a work-carrier: means' intermediate the work-carrier and the feedwheel, whereby the former is progressively f moved longitudinally of the button-hole during the stitching of the sides of the-same:

prising a device for progressivelymoving! h e' work longitudinally ofthe button-hole duri. Y

ing the stitching of the sides of the saine: a.' second device for progressively moving' the 1 work longitudinally of the button-hole diir'- ingJt-he stitching of the ends of the same:` means for operating the lirst device only' during the stitching of the sides of the'hiilton-hole; and means for operat ing the second device only during the stitching' of the ends` of the button-hole. i

9. A button-hole sevi'ing machine coniprising a ratehetwheel; means for periodic-- ally rotating the same; a second ratchct- -wheel separately mounted from the first ratchet-wheel; means for periodically rotating the second ratchet-wheel; mechanism, operated through the movements of the first ratchet-wheel, adapted to move the work longitudinally of thebntton-hole during the stitching of the sides of the same; and mech' v anism, operated through the movements of the second ratchet-Wheel, adapted "3o move the work during the stitching of the ends of the button-hole.

10. A feeding mechanism for button-hole sewing machines, comprising a work-carrier; f a cani for operating the same, said cani being mounted to rotate and free to move in any direction at substantially right angles to the axis of its rotation, and means for actuating the said cam.

11. A feeding mechanism for button-hole sewing machines -comprising a Work-carrier;

A a cam for operating the said work-carrier, mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane and free to move in any direction in the said plane and means for operating the said cam.

. 12. A feeding' mechanism for button-hole sewing machines comprising a disk mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane; a second disk adapted to slide (in the said first disk; a third disk adapted to slide on the said second disk;

l a work-carrier; a cam adapted to reciprocate the said work carrier, said cam being mounted on the said third disk; means for rot-ating all of the disks and means for reciprocating the third disk.

13. A feeding mechanism for button-hole sewing machines comprising a work-earrier;

a cam 1S, for reciprocating the said workcarrier; the disk 17, for rotating the said cam; means whereby the said disk 1s rotated and free to move laterally; the cam 27; the bellcrank lever 28, one end of which engages the said'disk and the other end of which engages said cani 27; and means for operating said cam 27.

vertically reci rocating and laterally moving needle for ma 'ing the end and side stitches of a button-hole, a feeding mechanism for moving thc work to dis ose t-hc said stitches longitudinally of the liole, means for suspending the action of said feeding mechanism, a device actuated separately .from said feeding mechanism for changing the working position of the needle from one to the other side of a button-hole, and means adapting said device to cause said feeding mechanism to airain act after said suspension.

'1a. A sewing machine comprising a vertically reci )rocatiiig and laterally vibrating B0 needle, a feeding mechanism for moving the work to properly place the stitches longitiidinally of the hole, means for suspending the action of said feeding mechanism, a device for changing the amplitude of vibration of $5 the needle, means adapting said device to 14. A button-hole machine 4comprising aA change the working position of saidneedle,. and means adapting said device to cause the aforesaid feeding mechanism to avain go into action after thc said change in the working position of the'needle. 70

16. A button-hole machine comprising a stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechf anism for moving the work 'comprising a ratchet wheel in theteeth of which there is a gap that causes the action of said feeding mechanism to be suspended, means for controlling the stitch forming mechanism comprising a second wheel in the. teeth of which there is a gap that causes the act-ion of.said wheel to be suspended, and means adapting said ratchet wheels to alternately turn each other into action.

17. A button-hole machine comprising a mechanism for making the end and side stitches of a button-hole, feeding mechanism for moving the work to dispose the side stitches longitudinally of the button-hole comprisinga toot-lied wheel, an auxiliarvfeeding mechanism for moving thel work to dispose wheel, and means for operating said second i toothed wheel at a higher rate of speed than said first toothed wheel;

1S. A button-hole machine comprising a 'feeding mechanism having a ratchetwheel 95 and means for operating 1t, means' for sus pending the act-ion of said ratchet wheL-a stitch forming mechanism comprisinu a vertically reciprocating and laterally vil'irating needle, a device for changing the amplitude 10Q of vibration of said needle comprising a harring ratchet wheel that is mounted separately` from said feeding ratchet wheel, means for actuating said barring ratchet -.\vheel at a higher rate of speed than said feedingratchet wheel, and means adapting said barring ratchet wheel to turn 'the feeding ratchet Wheel into action. i

19. A button-hole stitching machine com` prising a vertically reciprocating and laterally moving needle, a barring mechanism for controlling the amplitude of the lateral movement of said needle, a work-carrier, a cam for reciprocating said work-carrier, means for revolving said cam means for'sus- 115 pending the action of said cam, a device for moving said work-carrier after said sus ension, and means adapting a part of said arring mechanism to operate said device.

20. In a'buttonhole stitching machine, the 120 vcombination with a stitch forming mechanism, a work-carrier, a .cam coperating with said carrier, a barring mechanism, meansfor 'rotatin g said cum connected with one of said mechanisms, and means for bodilyT movine` said cam connected with another of mechanisms. 21, A feeding mechanism for sewing machines comprising a work-can'ier confined to z .operate in a single rightline, an actuating devivo cn'ipomting with the carriii :1nd mount-'I vd so that it muy have univeisul muvemrntin ii givvn' plano, and-mqzins for zictiiiiling" said devia-i* in said pinne.' 'L

22. In n lmttnnhulv sLjLf-Iiingmziihmc thv' mimhimilinn with :i szitl-h fnrmingr iiim'hzin- -ism :ind a' fwd niichnnisni, thi` liitlvr iin-lndinnnivurk-iwn'rivr :md :i rotating mini fm mmiiig thv rzirrim' in spam* thv bindingr slitclius, nlfiuirrmg mwlmmsm 'including` moans fur I mdily nun-ing uid mini tu :icfuaitv zlhv'cziirwr. y

255. In :i lmtimihuhstitching unichim, thv

ism iind a. feeding mechanism, the hittvr in- `@hiding a work-carrier and :in axially nim'- ahIezim fnr actuating the Carrier tospiu'c the binding,I stitclii-s,- 0f barrim,J mechanism in- -dmhng moans ior Imdily moving sind cam to :winnie th(l cariior.

Iii tvstiniuny whvrcnf, I have hereunto set my hund in thil presence of two subscribing viitinssvs. WILLIAM N. PARKES.

,Ifllissv.

Iuiurlxii: I. IIExniiiCKsnN, (Inn, W. EisizxnizAVN. 

